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However, as the time came near for the return of his chief, his friendliness began to flag, and he withdrew himself almost entirely from our society. Responsibility began to oppress him. Indeed, he went so far as to refuse to sell us provisions; luckily, however, there were Indian traders here, ready to help us out for good money.

One morning we heard the sound of bells in the distance as a huge mule-drawn caravan approached the village. Soldiers rode ahead followed by a swarm of male and female servants, and after them members of the Tibetan nobility, also mounted, whom we now saw for the first time. The senior of the two viceroys, whom they call garpons in Tibet, was arriving. He and his wife wore splendid silk robes and carried pistols in their girdles. The whole village assembled to see the spectacle. Immediately after arriving, the garpon moved in solemn procession into the monastery to give thanks to his gods for his safe return from the pilgrimage.